PATTERN INFORMATION
A few small details make the difference between a good result and a great one. We are here to help, each step of the way.
Tension / Gauge
Every garment starts with a swatch, and tension is what stands between a piece that fits beautifully and one that doesn't. It shapes both the scale and the drape of what you make, so even a small slip can carry through the whole thing. Each designer in our pattern collection works to their own tension, stated at the top of their pattern, and it's that figure you're matching rather than a fixed house standard.
To check yours, cast on for a swatch a little larger than the tension note calls for, around 5 to 10 extra stitches and rows, worked in the pattern and/or stocking stitch specified. Once it's blocked, pin out a 10cm square at its centre and count. More stitches than the pattern asks for means your fabric is sitting too tight, so move up a needle size. Fewer, and you'll want to go finer.
Match your tension and the rest takes care of itself: your finished piece will come out true to the measurements on the size diagram at the end of the pattern.
Finishing
A garment is only as good as its finishing, so it's worth taking your time here. Start by blocking each piece, then press following the instructions on your ball band, leaving any ribbing unpressed. Give the edges particular attention, since well-pressed edges make the sewing up ahead both easier and neater. Where the ball band asks you not to press at all, lay a damp white cotton cloth over the blocked pieces instead and leave them to stand, which has the same settling effect.
Weave in every end neatly, working along the selvedge or at a colour join. As you begin stitching pieces together, match colour and texture carefully wherever two edges meet. Back stitch or mattress stitch both work well for the main seams; join ribs and neckbands with mattress stitch unless your pattern says otherwise.
With the pattern instructions complete, join the left shoulder seam and the neckband seam first, as described above. From there, attach the sleeves to the body using whichever method your pattern specifies:
Straight cast-off sleeves: line up the centre of the sleeve's cast-off edge with the shoulder seam, then sew the sleeve top to the body, following any markers given.
Square set-in sleeves: line up the centre of the cast-off edge with the shoulder seam, and set the sleeve head into the armhole so the straight sides at the top meet the cast-off stitches at a neat right angle, front and back.
Shallow set-in sleeves: line up the centre of the cast-off edge with the shoulder seam, matching the decreases at the start of the armhole shaping to those at the top of the sleeve, then ease the sleeve head into the armhole.
Set-in sleeves: line up the centre of the cast-off edge with the shoulder seam and ease the sleeve head into the armhole.
Finish by joining the side and sleeve seams, slip stitching any pocket edgings and linings into place, and sewing on buttons to line up with their buttonholes. Leave ribbed welts, neckbands and any garter stitch unpressed throughout, and wash as directed on the ball band.
Experience Ratings
There ratings are for guidance only.
SKILL LEVEL: *
Beginner
Simple shapes and straightforward stitches. A good place to start, and a good place to return to.
SKILL LEVEL: **
Simple
Easy knitting with a little more to it, an introduction to shaping techniques and garment construction.
SKILL LEVEL: ***
Experienced
For makers who've built up some confidence. More advanced shaping, worked alongside colourwork or more involved stitch patterns.
Knitting Abbreviations
| Abbreviation | Details |
|---|---|
| K | knit |
| P | purl |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| inc | increas(e)(ing) |
| dec | decreas(e)(ing) |
| st st | stocking stitch (1 row K, 1 row P) |
| g st | garter stitch (K every row) |
| beg | begin(ning) |
| foll | following |
| rem | remain(ing) |
| rev st st | reverse stocking stitch (1 row P, 1 row K) |
| rep | repeat |
| alt | alternate |
| cont | continue |
| patt | pattern |
| tog | together |
| mm | millimetres |
| cm | centimetres |
| in(s) | inch(es) |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong sides |
| l 1 | slip one stitch |
| psso | pass slipped stitch over |
| p2sso | pass 2 slipped stitches over |
| tbl | through back of loop |
| M1 | make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop before next stitch and knitting into back of it |
| M1P | make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop before next stitch and purling into back of it |
| yfwd | yarn forward |
| yrn | yarn round needle |
| meas | measures |
| 0 | no stitches, times or rows-no stitches, times or rows for that size |
| yo | yarn over needle |
| yfrn | yarn forward round needle |
| wyib | with yarn at back |
| sl2togK | slip 2 stitches together knitways |